Drag racing tech FAQ (primer ITR)

[petronas]

Detalji na katere redko kdo pomisli... (Vprasanja in odgovori)

I've been getting a fairly good number of PM's and such in the last few months regarding my launch techniques and limited mods, as I'm sure alot of the other fairly quick drivers do too. Maybe I can answer a few questions in this thread and put out my opinion for further reference, so that I can link to it instead of always having to carry out long PM's that no one else can see.
Please note that I am NOT some drag pro, but I have good experience with my fairly stock R. I've racked up more than 200 1/4mi passes with it and have achieved times that are above average for a semi stock R.

All times mentioned are in regards to racing on true street tires.

1. What does a bone stock ITR run?

A normal ITR in ideal conditions around sea level Generally traps in the 94-96mph range. The ET is going to be up to track condition and the driver. With a good driver and track under the same conditions a stock R is capable of SOLID mid 14's, easily dipping into the lower 14's on the best runs with an experienced driver.

If your car is trapping in that range and it isn't running the times you want it's either the track or the driver, sorry but the car is running just fine.

For your first time at the track be content if your R breaks into the high 14's, don't worry, its not the end of the world. My first time at the track I had to struggle for a a 14.7@93.5mph


2. I have a stock R and want to pull mizzad fast times to impress chicks, what do I do?

Buy a Z28. Seriously, the key is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, and more PRACTICE. Do not substitute mods for driving skill.

A: Learn to read a time slip, as in the whole thing. You don't know how many guys I've met, that are at the track regularly, that still don't know what it means when I say "yeah, but what did you trap, or what was your 60'?", all they are concerned with are the numbers at the end, not the ones in between which are far more important. Sit down and break apart a good and an almost as good run, see the differences in time and speed at each point, try to think why the car would be doing what it is at the point where things don't match up. Your own noggin and that little slip can tell you alot more than what Joe Bob thinks you should do on the next run.

B: Pull a good 60' THAT IS IN THE POWER BAND! If you can't do this then a fast time isn't happening. 3rd gear VTEC, mad fast shifting skillz, lucky underwear, or a picture of your girlfriend covering the tach doesn't make up for a bad launch.

LAUNCH IT HIGH AND MODULATE THE CLUTCH AND GAS. This is how I've pulled my best 60' and 1/4mi times. My best launches were around 6-7000rpms ON TRUE STREET TIRES. Those that say that is too high for street tires just haven't practiced enough, or don't know what they are talking about. This is why I say practice is the key. I hold my revs at the determined rpm and bring the clutch part way up, to the point that I know it is going to start engaging. When I launch I do not apply more throttle, the throttle foot stays the same, if not releases some, as I smoothly but still quickly engage the clutch, when I feel the car will have traction I peg it the floor. The goal is to gain as much traction off the line as possible but to keep the car above 6,000rpms in the process.

Dependant on track conditions this will not always be possible, I know it wasn't for me. This you just have to learn. Start from a lower rpm and work your way up.

Now some of you are saying "but can't I pull good 60' without having to launch so high?". Yes I use to do it all day long, but then guess what, that makes our high strung cars have to pull through the dead spot of the power band, which is just wasted slow "hurry up and get to VTEC you torque less POS" yelling time.

Example: Some guy hooks a 2.2 60' from 3,000rpms, another does it from 6,000rpms...... guess who wins.

Oh and for all of you wondering I have pulled 2.0 and a bunch of 2.1 60' times on true street tires (not drag radials) with such methods. That should be enough evidence that it works.

C: Learn to shift fast. No not how you think you've been shifting. You banging the shifter at lighting speed means diddly squat. A four year old spaz power ranger wannabe could out shift us all if that was the requirement.

Fast shifting is all in FAST FEET COORDINATION. You can press the clutch in, then 3 days later snatch the shift lever at Jedi speed into second gear (thinking you're shifting fast), go to sleep, eat, whatever, then slam your foot off the clutch. Your hand speed was fast. The actual shift took three days, a nap, and a meal.

Right now sitting at the computer fire off the fastest front snap kick you can muster with your left leg. None of that pressing down letting off crap, a nice sharp kick, fast as you can there and back. Congrats, you just did a really fast shift. Now time that with your Jedi hands, learn that you can actually miss gears now because you really weren't shifting that fast before and subtract a touch from your ET.

Don't get too happy though your 60' is FAR more important.

PART 2:
3. It's my first time at the track. I keep peeing my pants, crying uncontrollably, and for some reason I seem to be driving like crap, what gives?

Yeah I thought it was going to be a piece of cake too. Then this crowd of people appeared, 600hp drag cars started showing up everywhere, this announcer started talking, and this blasted flashing light starting thing apparently cast a spell which erased all knowledge of my ability to drive my car. Lights flash, brain goes dead, right foot down, left foot up, did I shift back there?, what did I launch at?, did I even launch?, have I even ran my car yet?, what's a car?

It happens, called being nervous and distracted. The first thing I learned is to FORGET THE STINKING LIGHT AND THE GUY BESIDE YOU, until you get the hang of it. Remember your reaction time HAS NO EFFECT ON YOUR ET. You can sit at the light for a week if you want and still pull the best run of the night.

Don't worry about reaction times your first night. Just focus on a good launch and not missing shifts.

Did you get paired up with John Force this run? That is one of the most annoying things ever. Let the 600hp open header Camaro launch ahead of you, it makes sure you don't get creamed, and you get to focus on your run once he is done sliding around the track.

Remember it takes practice. Get the jitters out then start having some real fun.

4. Tire stuff.

Run high pressure in the back to keep it from squatting/unloading front. Lower the front pressure just enough to were you are getting good traction. Don't drop it down to 3psi or something. Remember you are on street tires. The lower the pressure the more the rolling resistance. Find the proper balance. A stiffer sidewall tire will generally be run at lower pressure for obvious reasons. Check them right before runs for consistency, pressure can change throughout the night.

Tip: For us without compressors fill them all the way up at a gas station and work you way down during the night. Don't bleed them low from the beginning because if it's too low you are stuck with it all night.

I generally ran around 20-22psi.

DO A DRY BURNOUT. Notice I said DRY, not a wet. Go in the water box and you might as well make a run on ice with street tires. Some people will argue about this, when they pull better 60' times than me I'll listen. Driving between runs you pick up dirt and other crap, doing a dry burnout will clean them off simple as that, and depending on the street tire a little heat might actually help. I usually pull the ebrake, but not necessary.

5. Do your normal maintenance, such as spark plugs more frequent if you want the best times. Mine always loved a fresh set of plugs. Little story, I was at the track one night car was "only" trapping 96mph, I knew something was up, check the plugs, they were fouled out. I ran to the store and picked up a new set, installed them in the parking lot, and my trap speeds bumped back up to 99mph I kid you not. A well running car means everything.


6. What's some simple stuff I can do?

Easy. Take out your seats and spare tire, remove the power steering belt, and unhook the exhaust. All free and they worked for me well.


7. Ok I've got everything down, launching good, and taking care of the car. What should I expect?

We are now saying you have a well running R, you know it by heart, and can launch/shift the fool out if it. You are also blessed with a good track and location.

Bone stock- 14.2-14.4
Free mods-13.9-14.2 (weight reduction)
Bolt-ons-13.6-13.9 (depending on weight)


Some personal times of note.

14.03@99.35mph- AEM CAI, free mods listed. This was before I had ever landed a 2.1 60' as well, but was due to the fact that I launched in the power band. It does
make a difference.

14.3@97mph- AEM, full interior, 115lb passenger.

14.3@96mph- Full interior, AEM CAI, JDM DC header modified to fit stock exhaust, 200lb passenger.

14.4@95 in 80 degree heat with extremely high humidity. Just AEM CAI and no exhaust.

13.8@98mph with a 2.0 60'. AEM CAI, JDM DC, running on 22lb CRV rims.

and the big 13.7@100.42mph. Same mods as the 13.8 listed above just a better night.

End notes: These times are not from some mizzad driving gift on my part. It came from simple practice and figuring out what works and what doesn't.

pa se zanimivost:
Actually my OEM clutch held up extremely well. All 200+ of those passes were done on the stock clutch, plus 53,000mi of hard street use and auto-x. In fact it was still biting when I changed it, but after hearing all of the stories on H-T about the stock clutch going out early I decided to swap it before it became an issue.

[R type]

B: Pull a good 60' THAT IS IN THE POWER BAND! If you can't do this then a fast time isn't happening. 3rd gear VTEC, mad fast shifting skillz, lucky underwear, or a picture of your girlfriend covering the tach doesn't make up for a bad launch.

Huda.

LP